Hi all,
I guess I’ll take a crack at this since its a popular mod and I just finished successfully installing/wiring it. Honestly, this isn’t too hard of a task, but it will require time, patience, time, dexterity, common sense, and more patience. Also, it helps to have a large assortment of tools at your disposal, otherwise, it’ll be harder than it needs to be.

Disclaimer: This is how installed and wired my rear fog and filler/license plate lights, this may not be the 100% correct way, but it works. Proceed at your own risk… Lol

What you will need:

EDM or UKDM rear garnish with the fog cutout
EDM rear fog light
JDM license plate filler lights, reflectors, whatever.

Trouble light
Test light
8mm, 10mm & 12mm sockets — deep preferred
Needle nose and other pliers
Vise grips (if you have not already removed the rear license plate garnish)
Drill bits — an assortment is recommended, or a step drill bit
Hole saw kit — not mandatory, but it makes for cleaner installs
Saw — hack saw, small reciprocating saw, something to cut metal…
16 gauge wire — Red & Black at least
Soldering iron & solder — or butt connectors
Heat shrink tubing & electrical tape
Wire strippers/cutters
Heat gun or lighter (BBQ lighter)
Phillips and flat head screw drivers
Small file
Sharpie, pencil, white/wood glue, paint — anything to mark things

Honestly, there is probably more I am missing. I had a well stocked garage at my disposal, so I just grabbed whatever did the job, but those should be the necessities

Now onto the actual steps…Part 1: Body Work

Pre step: Get some styrofoam cups or something to put all of your nuts, bolts, screws, clips, fasteners, etc. etc. etc. in. Label each cup according to different areas of the car — ex: Trunk, cabin, etc. Organization will save you loads of time at the end
Open your trunk and start stripping away the interior. This includes removing the 4 square clips along the top — use needle nose or other pliers to twist them 90° CLOCKWISE then remove, otherwise have fun with numb finger tips. Also, remove all of the plastic clips which fasten the interior to the metal by unscrewing the plastic phillips screw — tip: you can unscrew it like 75%, then use it as a nub/handle to pull the clip out, that way you don’t have to deal with 2 small pieces which are easy to lose.
Cool, now your trunk should be pretty bare. You only need to remove 2 out of the 4 interior panels to complete this. The one that sits against the cabin and passenger side can stay. On to the next part.
Start removing the rear license plate garnish by unbolting the 4 12mm… nuts (i guess). There are 2 located next to the inside of each corner of your taillights. I’d love to show you pictures, but I didn’t take any of this — tip: if you’re dumb like me, you wouldn’t have noticed that the bottom 2 nuts are blocked by a plastic clip which holds your tail light wiring in place. So just pull those off and then you can undo the bottom 2 nuts.
If you have ever removed the rear garnish before, you can probably skip this step. If not: there are 2 more ‘fasteners’ located near the top of the same trunk wall, kind of tucked behind where the 4 plastic clips were. For these last 2 fasteners you’ll need to get some locking vice grips because they are round, and basically designed to shred your knuckles and deter you from being productive. Clamp the vice grips on the fasteners, a smaller one surprisingly worked better for me because there was more room to work with. Carefully try to undo them… Carefully. A lot of force is needed, and there is a sharp metal brace that will destroy your hands if you slip, so use caution. — tip: wear some gloves, not thin rubber nitrile gloves, but maybe some mechanic or light gardening gloves. This’ll save you from having annoying cuts and scrapes, because you WILL knick your hand on the metal brace.
After you`ve removed the 2 round fasteners, throw them as far away from you as you can, and replace them with some 12mm nuts just like the ones you removed off of the other 4 studs.
Now you can remove the panel, slowly try pulling it out, inching one side at a time. If you need help getting started, use a small hammer or back of a screw driver to ‘knock’ on the studs from inside the trunk to pop it out. A small pry bar or something may be necessary, but do not use too much force or you could bend/damage the garnish. Be patient with this whole process. Rushing will do more damage than good, trust.
Once the panel is removed, you should have this! Finally, a picture!

By the way… you’ll be working on the slightly recessed square on the left (or right if you got a RHD panel). It’s very nice, and flat, and perfectly shaped for this exact thing.
Okay, once the naked butt of your sol is exposed, fit its new pants on the same way you took the old ones off — one leg at a time… basically, hang the panel on the back, and put one side’s studs (passenger first was usually easier) through the holes, NOT completely in, and then force the other side’s studs through. Once all 6 studs are through their designated holes, give the panel a few good taps with your palm to push it all the way in place. Tadaa:

Right, now we begin the actual fog installation processes. Get your rear fog light, and apply some paint or glue or something on the 2 longest plastic prongs, and slowly move the fog light through the panel until the prong things touch the trunk, and leaves 2 marks. as such:

— tip:These are basically to align the fog light, but honestly, these were probably the most difficult and useless things ever. If I could redo it, I would probably cut these prongs down to maybe 1/2 their size, so they still protrude past everything else, but are much shorter, and PARALLEL to the 8mm studs. Make sure they are damn straight, like, perpendicular to the fog from a birds eye view, because mine were crooked and it fked me 10000x over. The shorter it is, the less likely the chance that these 2 initial holes are misplaced.
Once the 2 holes are marked, start drilling them out. tip — get a punch, screw driver, nail, or anything, and a hammer to tap them, and make a small dent/mark where the fog prongs were. This way, your drill bit won’t dance around your trunk leaving scratches. Having a step drill bit would be nice, but I just used a small drill bit and moved gradually up to a bigger one until the prongs fit through

Couple things… Yes, there is a big hole in the middle, I shall address that next. Also, notice the smaller hole on the left of the right side hole… This is because my right side prong was slightly angled like “\” so the initial contact point/tip was not the same as the base of the prong. Which is why I said if I could, I would cut the prong down and make sure it was straight.
Okay, sooo. Here is where it gets a bit personal. I tried to make the cleanest install ever, because thats what I like and try to do. But, it cost me a lot more time and effort than was actually necessary. This is where a hole saw kit is sorta useful, but it isn’t until the rear fillers that it actually is very useful. Heres a series of pictures showing basically, what I did:

So, what you’re seeing is the gradual progression of steps I took to fit the fog light into the trunk… Sure it looks good from inside the trunk, but it fits like shit. Same steps as before, put some glue on the next protruding thing (the plug, then the actual light unit, then the 8mm studs, and finally the top prong) and drill/cut as needed. In the end, it fit, but it didn’t fit well with the panel on… I had it so precise that it wouldn’t move, and I did it with the panel off, so when I hung the panel back on and inserted the fog, it was slightly off to the right. — tip: this is the biggest waste of life. Do not follow these steps, because I am dumb and did not use foresight…
Basically, what you [b]SHOULD[/b] do, and this will save you much more time, and it pains me every time I think about it… is you should remove the plug (a small Phillips screw) and the light bulb socket thing from the fog light unit, and THEN use the glue to mark whatever protrudes. In the end, I had something like this…

I don’t think its possible to have an OEM perfect cutout… in fact, I don’t even know what that looks like, because this information is so damn hard to find. Some people just cut out big shapes, as long as the 8mm can fasten to something, you’re okay… but I like to leave as much material as possible.
Yup… so now you can hang the panel, insert the fog, and HAND tighten the two 8mm nuts to hold the light in place. The last thing you want to do is break off the 8mm studs because… yeah. Just don’t. Oh, and you can screw the plug back in, and reinsert your light bulb.

(Pretend I don’t have fillers on yet..)
Uhmm… next… we will install the fillers. Note, I’ve already drilled mine prior to painting, so I won’t be able to show you the steps… but I believe buckeyes or someone else posted a how-to on drilling the panel out… if you really really want, I can try and dig up some pictures. Just let me know

Okay, so, now that your panel is drilled for the fillers! We can drill the trunk to accept them! Same deal as before, using ONLY the light unit that goes into the bigger hole, put some glue on the plug and push it through until you have a general idea where the center of the hole is. You don’t need the plastic filler/panel because it’ll just get in the way, and lock in place every time you push the light unit through — pain in the a–. Also, you can get a sharpie or pencil or something, and trace around the bigger circle, so that there is a rough circle shape on your trunk.

Just like with the rear fog, there is a nice circle area that protrudes for you to cut. Stay in this OEM design, and you will have at least 75% accuracy.
The above pic is a 2-for-1 combo, super sized. On the left, you can see the glue mark that the plug left on the trunk. On the right, is the already drilled hole, with the circle that I made while tracing the circle on the rear panel. Note how my hole is slightly on the top half of the OEM circle area.

Yeah, now you can mount the light unit thing onto the rear panel for good. Use the 3 screws & plastic clips if you have/drilled them. If you’re like me and just drilled one extra hole to use a 10mm bolt and nut to lock it in, nows the time to do it. If you didn’t drill any extra holes to mount the light unit… well I’m gonna pop your entire filler off and sell it on ebay, simple pimple — don’t be THAT lazy please.

As of now, you should have this:

That concludes the body work for the installation… Next is the electrical/wiring… So… I’ve reached the image cap on this post.

– posted by klav07


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