Build your own Patzbox How to
Remove your stock storage bins and store them or put them on eBay
We’re going to cut the end pieces and center piece first.
All three pieces are the same size. Dimensions are 8 3/8″ High X 4″ Top Depth X 8″ Bottom Depth.
Next comes the bottom piece. Dimensions are 10 7/8″ Deep X 37 1/4″ Wide.
NOTE: the front side of this piece mst be cut to match the angle of the end pieces.
Test fit the bottom piece in the car to make sure it fits between the remaining
The next step is to cut the back piece for the box. Dimensions are 37 1/4″ Wide X 9″ Tall.Test fit all five pieces in the car. The back should fit under the grey wrap-around with very little clearance.After test fitting everything in the car and making sure everything lines up with each pieces
its time to assemble these pieces.
Couple of hints that I used:
1. Predrill each piece before inserting the screw.
2. Use “Liquid Nails” between each piece.
3. Attach the two side pieces to the bottom first, then attach the back to
The sides. Finally attach the center divider.
Your box should look like PIC #5 now with the addition of the center divider.
Your box should look like this
Your going to start by cutting a piece of MDF 46″ X 4″
NOTE: The front of this piece must be cut to match the angle of the sides.
1. Test fit the box in the car.
2. Take a piece of cardboard ( I used a piece of folder) and place it where the top piece would go. Now with a pencil or pen sketch on the cardboard how the interior curves where the top piece will come into contact with it. I cut the cardboard till the curve was exactly the same.
3. Once you have the curve. Take a scrap piece of wood and cut it to 4″ X 12″. This will serve as your test piece that you test the curve cut on.
4. Transfer your stencil to your test piece and make the cut.
5. Test fit the test piece in the car with the box. Trim where necessary to make it fit. If you screw up and cut to much, cut another test piece and start over.
6. Once you’ve got in just right, transfer the curve from your test piece to the top piece. Mirror the image on the other end. The top piece is already cut to the right length at 46″. It’s better to cut a little on the wide side and trim or sand the curve to the right size.
7. For examples see photos
8. Attach the top to the box.
Step 5 samples
1. Cut a piece of wood 50 1/4″ wide X 10 1/2″ tall.
NOTE: This piece of wood must be cut to match the angles of the side pieces.
2. Once again test fit the box in the car.
3. You’ll have to make another stencil for the front piece. Use the same method as the top. See photo # 10 and photo #11 for the dimensions for my stencil but keep in mind that your may be different.
4. Cut a test piece out of scrap wood 12″ X 10 1/2″, and transfer your stencil to your test piece.
5. Test fit your test piece and trim and sand till it fits. remember that you want the top piece and front piece to be flush with each other. You will also notice that these cut will work better if they are cut on an angle to match the plastic trim. See photo
.6. The rest is the same steps as the top piece. Be careful and take your time.
7. See photo for how you box should look by now.
Step 6 sample
Step 6 sample
A: Temporally attach the front to the box with a couple of predrilled screws. Just enough to hold it on.
B: Test fit the box in the car.
C: Recline your drivers seat back and mark on the box where the center of the seat back hits the box. This will serve as the center line of the sub from side to side.
D: Remove the box from the car. Using the stencils for the subs cutout from the manufacture, center the stencil top to bottom using the mark from the seat for your side to side. I leaned a little to the top for mine, but use your own judgement.
E: Mirror the measurements on the other end for the passenger side and remove the front piece from the box.
F: Use the jig saw to cut the holes for the subs. You’ll want to cut the holes a little (1/16″) larger than the stencils because the vinyl will make for a tight fit.
G: It’s a very tight fit for the subs in this box, mine would not fit into the box strait up and down because of the wire terminals. I had to mount them on an angle.
After attaching the front to the box you’ll need to sand everything smooth.I used a combo of 180 to 240 grit sandpaper. Sand all of the corners to take off the ruff edges.
I installed a quick release wire terminal on the drivers side end piece ( sorry no pics) It’s completely out of view when the box is in the car. I also drilled a hole in the center divider.
You may want a buddy around to help out with this one.
A: Start by cutting a piece big enough to cover the front and top with about 3 to 4″ of overhang.
B: Flip the box onto it’s top and staple the vinyl to the bottom along the front side about an 1 1/2 ” from the edge spacing the staples about an 1″ apart..
C: Flip the box right side up and spray the front and top with spray glue.
D: Now stretch the vinyl up and over the top and work out all of the wrinkles.
E: Staple the vinyl to the back about 1 1/2″ from the edge spacing the staples about an 1″ apart.
F: Here’s where it get fun. You and your buddy must stretch the vinyl over the end curves and work out the wrinkles. NOT AN EASY THING TO DO!!!!!!!! If you’ve never done this before then use your test pieces to practice. TRUST ME IT ISN’T FUN!!!!!
Step 10 sample
After the glue dries ( Read the directions on the can) Cut the vinyl over the holes using photo as a guide. Cut along the red lines first then go back and trim along the green line. When you install your subs it will push the remaining vinyl into the box and create a tight seal.
Install your wires and speakers and your done. I used polly fill from “Crutchfield” inside my box.
Someone asked me how I secured the box to my car. The answer was simple, I bolted a cable to each side of the box (See photo) about 3′ long. When I put the box in the car I fished the cable through to the trunk. There I locked each together with a padlock. All of this is hidden and the box can’t be moved with out unlocking it first.
Some Q&A about the Patzbox
#1 – how much polyfill did you use in each side
A: 1 cubic foot. 1/2 in each side.
#2 – how did you strap the cable onto the box for the padlock and how exactly did you padlock it
A: I bought 1/4″ cable and made two sections about 3′ long. Then I made a loop on each end of each piece. A small loop on one end to put a screw through with a big washer in to the box side. I made a larger loop on the other end of each big enough to side a padlock through. Once the box is installed in teh car I fished the cables through each side and locked the larger loops together. All of the cableand lock is hidden by my amp board.
#3 – any other helpful hints
A: take your time and test fit everything.
i bought the vinyl today, screws, liquid nail, and lowes only has 3/4″ MDF board, do you think that will work ok? i didn’t buy it yet
A: 3/4 I believe will work, ajust your measurments to accomadate the differance of the wood. You don’t want to make the box bigger, It will cause you to lose some airspace but I don’t think it will affect anything.